Friday, 30 September 2011
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Sheldon, is there a way to repair a Neutrik locking jack? I'm getting crackling and popping sounds that sound like a bad cable. I've tried a few different cables with the same results. looking in the control cavity and plugging a 1/4" in you can see the white wire's terminal push in a little bit and then return after the end is all the way in. Is that normal?
10 years ago
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#21766
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Change it.
10 years ago
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#21768
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[quote="DeepDee":1u2uizme]Change it.[/quote:1u2uizme] Solders look good. I'm just wondering if I can take a small flat head, or something similar, and bend a terminal back that isn't making a good connection, like on a Switchcraft.
10 years ago
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#21772
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I turned the jack 180 degrees without resoldering and that seemed to fix the major crackling and popping, at least through headphones. The white wire terminal is no longer pushing in as the jack is being installed. It looks like it's up against wood now. Now I have to use my fore finger instead of thumb to release. Not bad at all actually.
10 years ago
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#21778
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What type of cable are you using?
10 years ago
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#21781
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[quote="Sheldon Dingwall":1ouxq981]What type of cable are you using?[/quote:1ouxq981] 1st cable was a typical store branded with the blue reinforcement tube, then Dimarzio/Fender style braided. I tried a GeorgeL last. If I moved around I took the chance of a very loud pop.
10 years ago
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#21783
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Just got through testing; rotating the jack cut back on the crackling and popping through the cabs too. There's still a slight static if I dangle the cable and move it around. Same cable through a different non Neutrik'd bass was dead silent.
10 years ago
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#21784
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As I said before: Replace it; problem solved. It happens sometimes that these jacks don't work properly. It's not possible to repair them and not worth any any effort or time.
10 years ago
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#21789
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A jack that [b:th5f8prq]may[/b:th5f8prq] not work correctly is a big risk. This jack costs about 6 Euros (in Germany); replacing it is done in less than 15 minutes. I won't spend time in experiments.
10 years ago
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#21793
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[quote="DeepDee":2u3ocg8e]A jack that [b:2u3ocg8e]may[/b:2u3ocg8e] not work correctly is a big risk. This jack costs about 6 Euros (in Germany); replacing it is done in less than 15 minutes. I won't spent time in experiments.[/quote:2u3ocg8e] The 180 thing is a good temp fix but I'm with you, it should be replaced. If the pop would have happened through a big system I would have been politely informed to fix it or find another bass.
10 years ago
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#21794
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:wink:
9 years ago
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#22489
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I noticed Neutrik has 2 different types, which one? Should I go with the metal one if the poles were sliding through the old black plastic housing? Actually after looking at the pic the inside is still plastic. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=092-084 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=092-086 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=092-044
9 years ago
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#22508
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Go with the metal bodied one. That's a crazy good price too.
9 years ago
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#23035
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Hi there, Can a Neutrik locking jack be fitted to a Combustion without too much trouble? The last time I played, I twisted my cable to straighten it out and my signal cut out. I had to wiggle the connector around to get sound back. I'm pretty sure it's not the cable. I had fingers crossed (in my mind) that it would hold for the rest of the set. It did but made me think I should upgrade the jack. Thanks, Bo
9 years ago
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#23041
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A Neutrik would be very difficult to install. The jacks we use are Switchcraft and the cups are high-quality too. If the jack gets loose though it can short out on the shielding paint. Have a tech tighten it up and check to make sure there's lots of clearance.
9 years ago
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#23044
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I installed the metal Neutrik without issue.
9 years ago
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#23045
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[quote="Funkshwey":2782z2ly]I installed the metal Neutrik without issue.[/quote:2782z2ly] In a Combustion?
9 years ago
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#23046
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[quote="Sheldon Dingwall":2em5b4dd][quote="Funkshwey":2em5b4dd]I installed the metal Neutrik without issue.[/quote:2em5b4dd] In a Combustion?[/quote:2em5b4dd] No, in my ABII.
9 years ago
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#23047
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That was going to be my question. I'm handy with a soldering iron but if the locking jack doesn't fit physically, I am not okay with hacking the body to make it fit. Thanks for your replies. Bo
9 years ago
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#23049
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Update. So, it turns out that the jack had just worked loose from the cup. A drop of LockTite, snug it up and it's good as new. :)
6 years ago
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#28651
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A bit of a topic bump here. I bought a new combustion and received it last December. On the very first day I noticed that the jack input was cutting out my signal sometimes. I have used it on several occasions since but always taking care to not move a lot while playing. And the time passed since... I was inclined to replace the standard switchcraft jack that came with it with a neutrik one and, only now, got one that looks exactly like this (http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nj ... l--092-044). When I went to check if it fitted, well, you know the answer. The Combustion jack has a cup shape and the neutrik has a flat squared shape and I don't see how it could fit without some body rework. Is it possible at all to fit a neutrik in a Combustion? I think I read somewhere that the NG-2 comes with a neutrik jack input but I'm not sure where I read it. Oh, and to my surprise, the switchcraft jack was fine afterall and, like BoDavis, it had only worked loose from the jack cup, probably due to the cable twistings.
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