Wednesday, 31 October 2007
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I have tightened my truss rod a couple of times on my AB1 over the past 6 months or so. My action is still higher than I'd like and there's still an obvious bow to the neck. I'm worried about over-tightening the rod. All together I've probably turned it about 1.5 rotations; how much room is there likely left? How easy is it to over-turn and f%@k up the rod? I once snapped the rod while abusing a cheap Fender and don't care to repeat the gaffe with this wonderful instrument. Am I best off removing the truss rod nut and starting over (and if so, how do I do this)? I can take it to a luthier, but that'd mean being without it for at least a week :-(
14 years ago
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#7641
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Hi Morris, It's doubtful that you could break your rod. The worst that's ever happened is that the nut head strips. You wouldn't want that either, but at least it's an easy repair. If it's really tight you could have a friend push down on the headstock a little - maybe up to about 5 lbs of pressure. While you hold the body and tighten the rod.
14 years ago
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#7642
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I do always straighten the neck a bit and THEN tighten,using the rod to hold rather than bend-so I gather my snapping the Fender rod was due to its' wimpiness and not my manly powers :-). In theory, then, there are many turns "left"?
14 years ago
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#7655
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[quote="lomo":6zmn8pmy]In theory, then, there are many turns "left"?[/quote:6zmn8pmy] More than you should ever need.
14 years ago
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#7656
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Hi Sheldon, I have tightened the B string action adjustment screws all the way down and I would still like a little lower action. Should I tighten the truss rod until I get the desired height (action) with out fret bussing? When I fret the 1st and 17th fret my relief at the 7th fret is about .015" Is it OK to go to .010" to get the action I want? Thank you, David
14 years ago
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#7657
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Pardon my spelling. Buzzing not bussing.
14 years ago
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#7658
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[quote="dsincjr":2jpgsh2v]Hi Sheldon, I have tightened the B string action adjustment screws all the way down and I would still like a little lower action. Should I tighten the truss rod until I get the desired height (action) with out fret bussing? When I fret the 1st and 17th fret my relief at the 7th fret is about .015" Is it OK to go to .010" to get the action I want? Thank you, David[/quote:2jpgsh2v] Having just been through this-check the sticky-Sheldon advises approaching the rod first, then messing with the bridge if necessary. I got my action nice and low with the rod only.
14 years ago
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#7659
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Thanks lomo, What is your distance at the 7th fret with 1st and 17th fret depressed? Mine currently is about .015". I think I can go a little lower without buzzing. I think Sheldon recomends .020" +/- but I guess it is personal taste and or touch. By the way I live in Glens Falls,NY. Some good friends of our are from Malone. Her father was and her brother is a farmer there. By the way I have a Prima artist. Regards, David
14 years ago
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#7660
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[quote="dsincjr":3bshetwl]Hi Sheldon, I have tightened the B string action adjustment screws all the way down and I would still like a little lower action. Should I tighten the truss rod until I get the desired height (action) with out fret bussing? When I fret the 1st and 17th fret my relief at the 7th fret is about .015" Is it OK to go to .010" to get the action I want? Thank you, David[/quote:3bshetwl] If you play lightly .010" will be fine. The riser screws on the B, E and A-strings are 1/2". Measure from the top of the bridge plate to the bottom of the B-string riser screw heads to confirm that you've bottomed out. If you've bottomed out and you'd still like to go lower we have 3/8" screws. Keep in mind, the lower you go the less headroom for dynamics you'll have.
14 years ago
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#7661
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Hi Sheldon, Let me go down to the .010". That should get me to where I want to be. I'll do that with the truss rod. I'll then check the dstance between the G string and the neck pickup and see where that is. I know I'm am a little closer than you recomended but I still am getting good tone. Should the spacing between the bridge pup be the same as the neck pup? I think at this point it is just fine tuning. Thanks Sheldon.
10 years ago
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#22301
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Dear Sheldon, As I am seriously considering a 6 strings AB1 (2), I was just wandering which are Yout thoughts on choosing to install a single truss rod in the middle of the neck, instead of having 2 truss rods installed, alike the Yamaha TRB-6 for example. Are there some cons in having 2 or You verified that one single truss rod properly installed is more than adequate to counteract strings tension and seasonal movements? Thank YOu very much, Alberto
10 years ago
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#22302
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I've been thinking about that just the other day. I guess the dual truss rod thing is there only to prevent the neck from twisting as the tensions begin to differ radically on either side of the neck on parallel fret basses. That is not the case with Dingwalls which have even tension, so a single properly installed truss rod should keep the neck straight. But that's just guessing, I'm looking forward to the answer.
10 years ago
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#22304
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At the moment I have two 6-string ABs here. Absolutely no problems with the neck, the trussrod works easily and accurate, like in my 5-strings. It depends on neck construction and on the type of trussrod. I guess above six strings (seven or more) it's getting difficult with only one trussrod.
10 years ago
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#22309
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Our truss-rods are heavy. Two would require a much thicker neck and create a lot of neck-dive. Single rods have been working well for a long time in our necks.
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