39" from edge of body to the B nut. One thing I've done down low is commit to stand up fingering 124 (fingers) 123 (frets). This has actually made my pinky stronger too.

That's an interesting question. Does anyone have the ability to take a photograph of them wearing a Dingwall and a Fender with the following criteria? 1. Hang the basses at as close to the same height and angle as possible 2. Stand in the exact same position and use a tripod. 3. Set the shot up so there's a door frame close to the headstock for visual reference. TIA

I figured a rear pin to nut measurement should be good enough, as the rear of any bass should "start" at the same spot on the same person, but photos of Dingwalls are always appreciated! EG

Hi sheldon...this isn't pretty, but it was a quick job. If it's not exactly what you want, I can retake... [img:2j6pxjx0]http://homepage.mac.com/burningskies/.Pictures/IMG_3104.JPG[/img:2j6pxjx0] [img:2j6pxjx0]http://homepage.mac.com/burningskies/.Pictures/IMG_3105.JPG[/img:2j6pxjx0] [img:2j6pxjx0]http://homepage.mac.com/burningskies/.Pictures/IMG_3106.JPG[/img:2j6pxjx0] My positioning does move just a bit, unfortunately.

Thanks, quick work and very useful! Doesn't look too much longer than the Fender and I'm already used to a 35" MTD. Cheers, EG

No problem. I'm not exactly standing in the precise same location, but you can make adjustments according to the frame, bookcase, etc. BTW, can you tell that I had 4 hours of sleep and a 10 hour work day yesterday? Ugh.

[quote="Funkshwey":2skghb8s]39" from edge of body to the B nut. One thing I've done down low is commit to stand up fingering 124 (fingers) 123 (frets). This has actually made my pinky stronger too.[/quote:2skghb8s] Hi EG You got me thinking. I started playing way long ago (think Shadows cover band! ) First new bass was a '64 Fender VI (that's my old one at Jackson's Rare Guitars). Switched over and grew up locked into standard Fender P bass scale and neck. Finally switched a '64 P Bass over for a Martin acoustic (34.5") and a Lakland 55-02 (35") two years ago. I guess the idea was to move to a five. After all of those years the switch to a longer scale, and the width of the five, was VERY traumatic. Wrist pain, finger pain, the need for new techniques. I hadn't even noticed that I was doing the 124 fingering until I read Funkshwey's post above. In fact I just noticed I now slide with my pinky on 'Come Together'. All of that went away after some time. I then bought my AB1 and have found absolutely no transition issues. I guess if you are used to a 35" you won't have much trouble. I alternate now between my Dinger and my Sadowsky 4 and brain and muscle memory finds that very natural, at least as far as scale is concerned. If only I could get used to that extra string on the bottom! Hope this helps. Just do it - you'll love it! Cheers Ross

This picture should show it pretty well: [img:2130ksqs]http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w267/Smallmouth_Bass/PABI.jpg[/img:2130ksqs] Overall, the instrument length is pretty much the same. If you look at the G-string on each bass, the Afterburner is a little bit forward of the 34" scale Fender. However, the strap pin placement on the body is not at the centre the body, but towards the upper bevel. This makes the bass tilt up when strapped on (and is very comfy!). I personally found that the move from a 34" scale length bass to a 35" bass more difficult than going to the Dingwall 37"-34" 5-string. The Dingwall neck is very comfortable and you only may notice the extra length in the lowest notes, and only really if you are staying down there long and doing certain types of fingering. Remember, the bridge is fanned too, so half of the fan is on the bridge end which is not really as noticeable when you are playing. So, 37" minus 34" = 3", divided by 2 = 1.5" extra length at the headstock end of the bass. It's not too bad at all and you are blessed with [i:2130ksqs]the[/i:2130ksqs] best B-string ever!

Here's some shots with: 1. AB on top w/ front strap buttons even 2. Fender on top w/ front strap buttons even 3. The G strings squared (34") Looks like the differences are slight. Mark

Excellent comparison pics Burning and Guitarded. To hit a low C on a DW is like reaching just one extra fret lower on a P with the G string being about the same. That one extra fret reach for the low C on a DW is worth it. I checked out my elbow angle when reaching for a low C and it was a little bit more than 90 degrees. My sleeve is 33".

Awesome work, guys, I appreciate it! Now if I could just choose a model... EG

[quote="Smallmouth_Bass":1q68wl5c]This picture should show it pretty well[/quote:1q68wl5c] Is that one of the new Precision V's ? How do you like it ? Mark

[quote="guitarded":4kqpt1wk][quote="Smallmouth_Bass":4kqpt1wk]This picture should show it pretty well[/quote:4kqpt1wk] Is that one of the new Precision V's ? How do you like it ? Mark[/quote:4kqpt1wk] It is. It's a very nice bass. Feels good, looks good, sounds just like a P with an extra string and is pretty light (8.8 lbs). The B-string feels and sounds as good as a 34" scale can.

Hey guys, Unless something goes mysteriously wrong with my email or credit card, I've just put a deposit on that sexy looking ABII fiver at BNW - mahogany body with bubinga top and neck. Now the countdown starts, still have to sell another bass for the rest of the money.... EG

Stupid followup question on lengths, but I presume a Z2 or even a Z3 will be slightly shorter than my ABII, because it's only 22 frets? Seeing as my ABII is doing such a good job of edging out my ash-bodied MTD 535, I'm seriously wondering how damn good a dual-density ash Dingwall would be.... Cheers, EG

Evil the # of frets has nothing to do with scale length. A bass w/22 frets has 22 frets. A one fretted Z2 will be the exact same length as a 22 or 24 fret Z2. [quote="evilgus":2nuzezsg]Stupid followup question on lengths, but I presume a Z2 or even a Z3 will be slightly shorter than my ABII, because it's only 22 frets? Seeing as my ABII is doing such a good job of edging out my ash-bodied MTD 535, I'm seriously wondering how damn good a dual-density ash Dingwall would be.... Cheers, EG[/quote:2nuzezsg]

Ah, but given it's a different design to my ABII and has two less frets, surely the headstock should still be a bit closer to the body? Yes, it would still be a 34-37" scale length bass. EG

[quote="evilgus":l1vx6ug1]Ah, but given it's a different design to my ABII and has two less frets, surely the headstock should still be a bit closer to the body? Yes, it would still be a 34-37" scale length bass. EG[/quote:l1vx6ug1] The only thing that would get the HS closer to the body would be a shorter scale, not less frets. The amount of frets will never affect scale length. You could have a one octave 12 fret Z2 and it'll be the exact same size as your bass. Take for example your bass Evil. Remove the highest 10 frets on your 22 fret Z2. The bass wouldn't get shorter, it would just have less frets. Given it's a different design the only way for it to be shorter would be if Sheldon shaved off an inch or 2 of headstock. There's not much room to shave the body because on both models the B string is at the edge of the body.

[quote="Funkshwey":3nwxs7ej] The only thing that would get the HS closer to the body would be a shorter scale, not less frets.[/quote:3nwxs7ej] Or the bridge further towards the tail. I'm pretty sure that's impossible on all dingwalls. The bridge pieces are hanging off the end as it is.

Hehehe, thanks guys, I'm an idiot. Aside from the fact that I like Dingwalls. EG