Hi Rob, I've always tried to avoid using oil meant for metal on wood so can't comment on that other than to say I'd try something else first. Start by removing the neck. Test the rod. then Get a friend to help by physically bending the neck to create a little back bow. This could be done on a table by supporting the middle of the neck with something firm but soft enough not to damage the wood. The press on the nut area and heel area at the same time with 5-10 pounds of pressure. IMPORTANT: don't press on the headstock. Still no luck? Get a second wrench that you can throw out after. Heat it with a lighter or torch. Not red-hot but hot enough to burn you if you're not careful so use a pair of visegrips to hold the wrench so that you don't have to concentrate on holding it. Insert the hot wrench into the truss-rod nut for a few seconds to warm it up 20-30 degrees. Pull it out and try it again. In cases such as this always use a fresh wrench as any wear on your wrench will only make stripping the nut more likely. Once you get the nut (it's actually a bolt) loose, I'd recommend (if it comes out easily) putting a little lithium grease on the threads.

Wow! I'm reminded of why I purchase newer cars as I am not handy enough to repair them either. Lol! A couple of things I need clarification. When you refer to heating the wrench, are you referring to the truss rod tool? Also, are any of the tools that you provided used for removing the neck? Finally, the penetrating oil is really supposed to loosen the bolt, correct. Is your concern that it will also contact the wood?v Thanks agai Sheldon. I guess I'm not the guy who should be purchasiing your vintage basses. LOL! [quote="Sheldon Dingwall":fzdwc0g4]Hi Rob, I've always tried to avoid using oil meant for metal on wood so can't comment on that other than to say I'd try something else first. Start by removing the neck. Test the rod. then Get a friend to help by physically bending the neck to create a little back bow. This could be done on a table by supporting the middle of the neck with something firm but soft enough not to damage the wood. The press on the nut area and heel area at the same time with 5-10 pounds of pressure. IMPORTANT: don't press on the headstock. Still no luck? Get a second wrench that you can throw out after. Heat it with a lighter or torch. Not red-hot but hot enough to burn you if you're not careful so use a pair of visegrips to hold the wrench so that you don't have to concentrate on holding it. Insert the hot wrench into the truss-rod nut for a few seconds to warm it up 20-30 degrees. Pull it out and try it again. In cases such as this always use a fresh wrench as any wear on your wrench will only make stripping the nut more likely. Once you get the nut (it's actually a bolt) loose, I'd recommend (if it comes out easily) putting a little lithium grease on the threads.[/quote:fzdwc0g4]

[quote="BuffaloBob":2nbh78wh]Wow! I'm reminded of why I purchase newer cars as I am not handy enough to repair them either. Lol! A couple of things I need clarification. When you refer to heating the wrench, are you referring to the truss rod tool? Also, are any of the tools that you provided used for removing the neck? Finally, the penetrating oil is really supposed to loosen the bolt, correct. Is your concern that it will also contact the wood?v Thanks agai Sheldon. I guess I'm not the guy who should be purchasiing your vintage basses. LOL![/quote:2nbh78wh] Wrench = truss rod tool. If you're going out to buy one it's a 9/64" allen (hex) wrench The oldest basses had Phillips head screws for neck attachment. #2 phillips driver is what's needed. Since then we've used large head joiner bolts. 4mm or 5/32" allen wrench is needed for them. We include this wrench with our kit. It will have red heat shrink on it to identify it. The older basses were shipped with driver handled wrenches. In this case the handle would be red. It's always important to assess your abilities and experience before working on an instrument. Experience doing service work is more successful and less stressful when you've made your mistakes on cheap instruments first.

OK Sheldon, I managed to get some play in the truss rod. I applied the heat and some firm steady pressure and it has reluctantly let go a bit. It's not working real easily, but it probably hasn't been turned in 20 years, so can you blame it? LOL! I'll try to get some of that lubricant you suggested. Anyway, now to adjust the height of the saddles, do you just rotate the saddles like a screw(requiring removal or at least significant loosening of the string to remove it from the saddle)? This bass has your older bridge (with the saddles that look like slotted screws) that does not anchor all the way through the bass. It has two other adjustment points forward and aft of the saddles, but I assume that is for moving the saddles forward and back. Sorry for these questions, but the bass didn't come with an original manual!

[quote="BuffaloBob":2sxzstgh] Anyway, now to adjust the height of the saddles, do you just rotate the saddles like a screw(requiring removal or at least significant loosening of the string to remove it from the saddle)?[/quote:2sxzstgh] Yes, loosen the string a few turns, lift it up, rotate the screw.

Sheldon when you carve the trussrod housing into the neck, how far does the opposite end of the truss rod extends into the neck? Does it go all the way up to the first fret or does is start below the 2nd fret?

It terminates at about the 1st fret.

[quote="Sheldon Dingwall":u6qd3w7v]It terminates at about the 1st fret.[/quote:u6qd3w7v] Thanks Sheldon.